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From Flax to Linen
German folklore is replete with images associated with flax and its production processes. Ancient stories, such as Sleeping
Beauty (think of the spinning wheel) and Rumplestiltskin (the King’s demand that the miller’s daughter spin straw into gold)
tell of the important role that flax and the tools used to turn it into linen played in the lives of the European people. For the
farm families of yesteryear, linen was needed to provide clothing and bedding as well as grain sacks and other items necessary
for farm work. Most of the backbreaking work in making linen was performed by women, as portrayed in the pictures below,
taken from a German Almanac published in 1882.
German folklore is replete with images associated with flax and its production processes. Ancient stories, such as Sleeping
Beauty (think of the spinning wheel) and Rumplestiltskin (the King’s demand that the miller’s daughter spin straw into gold)
tell of the important role that flax and the tools used to turn it into linen played in the lives of the European people. For the
farm families of yesteryear, linen was needed to provide clothing and bedding as well as grain sacks and other items necessary
for farm work. Most of the backbreaking work in making linen was performed by women, as portrayed in the pictures below,
taken from a German Almanac published in 1882.
Pulling
Flax was sown in March or April. It was a fast growing plant that grew
about 40 inches tall. Sometime during August, when the plants’ color
turned to a golden hue, the plants were ready for harvest. In order to
produce the best quality linen possible, the fiber had to be hand
harvested by either pulling the whole plant by the root or by cutting the
stalks very close to the ground.
Flax was sown in March or April. It was a fast growing plant that grew
about 40 inches tall. Sometime during August, when the plants’ color
turned to a golden hue, the plants were ready for harvest. In order to
produce the best quality linen possible, the fiber had to be hand
harvested by either pulling the whole plant by the root or by cutting the
stalks very close to the ground.
Separating
“rippling”. During this process the plant stalks were pulled through a
rippling comb, which was an iron or wooden device that was studded
with nails for the easy removal of seeds and other undesirable plant
elements.
“rippling”. During this process the plant stalks were pulled through a
rippling comb, which was an iron or wooden device that was studded
with nails for the easy removal of seeds and other undesirable plant
elements.
Retting
To dissolve the pectin, which binds the plant fibers together, the
remaining flax stalks had to be rotted or “retted”. This could be achieved
periodically, to allow the dew to accomplish the rotting process. A faster
way to decompose the pectin was to submerge the stalks deep into the
local pond and weigh them down with heavy objects, such as stones or
logs. With this method, the retting took just a few days.
To dissolve the pectin, which binds the plant fibers together, the
remaining flax stalks had to be rotted or “retted”. This could be achieved
periodically, to allow the dew to accomplish the rotting process. A faster
way to decompose the pectin was to submerge the stalks deep into the
local pond and weigh them down with heavy objects, such as stones or
logs. With this method, the retting took just a few days.
Drying
In late August or early September, after the plants were retted and
retrieved, the farmers tied them into small bundles and laid them out in
the open fields to dry. This was done to bring the rotting process of the
fibers to an end. Retting the flax stalks too long would render them
brittle and unsuitable for textile production.
In late August or early September, after the plants were retted and
retrieved, the farmers tied them into small bundles and laid them out in
the open fields to dry. This was done to bring the rotting process of the
fibers to an end. Retting the flax stalks too long would render them
brittle and unsuitable for textile production.
Roasting
When the weather was damp, it was often necessary to roast the flax in
special ovens at very low temperatures until it was dry.
When the weather was damp, it was often necessary to roast the flax in
special ovens at very low temperatures until it was dry.
Breaking
After drying, the flax was ready for “scutching”, also called the
“swinging” process. Small bundles of stalks were dragged in a swinging
motion across a nail-spiked board to remove the woody parts of the
fibers. At this time, only the long, soft flax strands remained, which were
twisted into braids, ready to be spun.
When the work was done, the young people of the village would meet
for an evening of play and dance, the so-called “swing dances”.
After drying, the flax was ready for “scutching”, also called the
“swinging” process. Small bundles of stalks were dragged in a swinging
motion across a nail-spiked board to remove the woody parts of the
fibers. At this time, only the long, soft flax strands remained, which were
twisted into braids, ready to be spun.
When the work was done, the young people of the village would meet
for an evening of play and dance, the so-called “swing dances”.
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